A few weeks ago, as I meticulously laid out my travel plans for Paris, one item stood prominently on my itinerary: ascending the majestic Eiffel Tower by its historic steps. The idea of conquering each step, feeling the iron lattice beneath my fingers, and earning the panoramic reward at the summit held a particular allure. However, as often happens with travel, plans must sometimes yield to the unexpected whims of nature.
Our final morning in Paris dawned with a gentle, persistent rain, casting a silvery sheen over the city. Arriving early at the base of the Iron Lady, eager to embark on our planned stair climb, we were met with a cautionary directive. The steps, we were informed, were slick and potentially hazardous due to the inclement weather. Opting for safety and a smooth experience, we were guided towards the elevators, a slight pivot from our original adventurous spirit, but one that promised a unique perspective nonetheless.
Fortune smiled upon us in two ways that morning. First, the early hour and the damp weather meant fewer crowds. We presented our tickets and were swiftly ushered to the elevator, bypassing the long queues that often snake around this iconic monument. Second, just as we began our ascent, the rain, as if on cue, began to subside, promising clearer skies for our elevated exploration.
The Eiffel Tower’s elevators are an engineering marvel in themselves. Vast and powerful, they ascend at a distinct angle, a sensation that initially feels peculiar but quickly transforms into a remarkably smooth and silent glide. As the ground receded beneath us, the vistas of Paris unfolded with breathtaking grandeur, growing more expansive and detailed with every meter gained. To reach the very uppermost viewing deck, we transitioned between two separate elevators, each segment offering a unique perspective of the city’s sprawling beauty.
For those curious to experience the dynamic upward journey, I captured an Instagram Story detailing the elevator ride, which remains archived in my Paris highlights for easy viewing. It truly conveys the sensation of rising above the Parisian landscape.
Despite the lingering overcast skies, the clarity of the view from the top was astonishing. We could discern every architectural detail and trace the serpentine paths of the city’s avenues, seeing far beyond the urban core. In the hazy distance, the magnificent Arc de Triomphe stood proudly, marking the western end of the illustrious Champs-Élysées. The Eiffel Tower offers not just one, but three distinct levels, each providing a fresh vantage point of the city. Our initial panoramic shot was captured from the uppermost level, looking northwest, encompassing a vast stretch of Parisian life below.
From a slightly lower level, we focused our gaze on a charming residential area, observing the intricate patterns of rooftops and the bustling life unfolding far beneath us. The ability to circulate 360 degrees around each level truly allows one to absorb Paris from every conceivable angle.
Paris, for the most part, presents a relatively flat topography, a characteristic that makes its occasional hills stand out all the more. Prominently in the distance, we could spot the imposing incline of Montmartre, a significant hill dominating the city’s 18th arrondissement. This iconic hill is home to the stunning Sacré-Cœur Basilica, a destination Ed and I would visit next, immediately after our two-stage elevator descent back to street level. While the ascent to the tower by elevator was comfortable, it was quite wet at the summit. I witnessed a teenager slip and fall on the damp surface, a vivid reminder that taking the elevator was indeed a prudent decision. Though I missed the personal challenge of climbing the stairs, I certainly made up for it with an abundance of walking and climbing throughout the rest of our day.
Indeed, the remainder of our Parisian day involved a rigorous exploration on foot, culminating in an impressive 11 miles covered, complete with numerous ascents and descents. This extensive walking allowed us to immerse ourselves deeply in the city’s diverse character, revealing hidden charms and iconic sights that might otherwise be missed. We delighted in the sight of meticulously maintained flower boxes adorning windowsills and balconies, bursting with vibrant blooms that added splashes of color to the predominantly stone palette of the city.
Each Parisian storefront we encountered seemed to tell a story, their elegant displays and classic architecture offering a glimpse into the city’s enduring style and heritage. From centuries-old boutiques to modern art galleries, the street-level views were a constant source of fascination.
And then there were the cafes. Ubiquitous yet utterly unique, they graced virtually every corner, each one exuding an air of understated chicness that somehow managed to surpass the last. Their outdoor seating, even in the cool, damp air, remained a magnet for locals and tourists alike, a testament to the enduring Parisian cafe culture.
As we continued our westward journey towards Montmartre, the gentle incline of the city gradually steepened, transitioning into a noticeable climb. This ascent persisted until we reached the very apex of the hill, crowned by the magnificent Sacré-Cœur Basilica, an architectural jewel glittering white against the Parisian sky.
The journey through Montmartre’s labyrinthine, narrow cobblestone streets was a delight in itself. Here, artists had set up their easels and displays, showcasing a vibrant array of paintings and sketches for sale. The artistic energy was palpable, reflecting Montmartre’s rich history as a haven for creative spirits.
This particular district, at least during our visit, proved to be one of the most bustling and tourist-centric areas we encountered in Paris, alive with the chatter of visitors and the melodies of street performers.
After a good, steady climb, we finally reached the magnificent Sacré-Cœur. We ventured inside for a brief, reverent tour, marveling at its serene interiors and impressive mosaics. Afterward, we spent some time on the grand steps outside, soaking in the atmosphere and enjoying the quintessential Parisian pastime of people-watching.
As the day progressed and the crowds swelled, we decided to begin our descent, heading towards the city’s historic Left Bank. Before leaving the basilica’s immediate vicinity, we paused to observe a fascinating tradition: the “Love Locks.” Sections of fencing in front of Sacré-Cœur were adorned with countless padlocks, each a symbolic gesture of affection and romance, attached by visitors who often throw away the key as a testament to eternal love. Our guide from the previous day had shared an amusing anecdote about these locks, noting the occasional appearance of combination locks – perhaps a more pragmatic approach to “eternal” commitment! This phenomenon, a heartfelt expression of human connection, adds another layer of charm to an already enchanting location.
Navigating our way down the hilly streets of Montmartre required careful footing, yet we were equally determined not to miss the continually evolving views as we descended. Each turn offered a new vista of Paris, slowly revealing more of its intricate urban fabric.
As illustrated in this photograph and others I’ve shared from our trip, Paris truly is a city of pastels. The majority of its buildings are rendered in gentle, light hues, predominantly shades of neutrals, tans, and peaches. While any large city will inevitably have its share of weathered structures, Paris maintains an overall aesthetic of captivating beauty, its eye-pleasing architecture creating a harmonious and elegant urban landscape that is a constant visual delight.
Once we reached street level again, the sheer charm of every intersecting lane presented a delightful dilemma: which way to go? Each street seemed more inviting and intriguing than the last, beckoning us to explore its unique character and hidden gems.
While Google Maps on our phones provided invaluable assistance in navigating the sprawling city, we often indulged our curiosity, veering off onto any street that caught our eye, confident that the GPS would always guide us back to our intended direction. This blend of planned navigation and spontaneous exploration truly enriched our experience.
During our extensive walk, we passed several Metro stations. I had hoped to encounter more examples of the distinctive Art Nouveau style that defines many of Paris’s historic subway entrances. This particular sign, with its elegant curves and botanical motifs, was a standout amongst the modern stations, a beautiful reminder of a bygone era. These iconic stations were masterfully designed by the French architect Hector Guimard at the turn of the 20th century. His avant-garde entryways have since become enduring symbols of Paris’s Golden Age of art and architecture, a century of timeless design.
Before finally heading towards the Left Bank of the Seine, we decided to make one last detour westward to visit another iconic Parisian landmark. My aim was to stroll along the elegant colonnade at the Palais Royal, a site famously featured in the classic movie “Charade,” starring Cary Grant and Audrey Hepburn. However, upon our arrival, we discovered the area was cordoned off, abuzz with activity for Paris Fashion Week. We had noticed several other elaborate setups around the city, showcasing the immense scale and meticulous planning involved in these high-profile events. Disappointed but understanding, we crossed this item off our sightseeing list and instead made our way to a different magnificent square.
Our redirected path led us to the esteemed Place Vendôme, a grand square nestled in the 1st arrondissement, just north of the Tuileries Gardens, which we had explored the previous, rainy day. This square is an epitome of Parisian luxury and sophistication, renowned for its opulent jewelry stores and the central Vendôme Column.
It is also the distinguished location of The Ritz hotel, a name synonymous with unparalleled elegance and world-class service. We made sure to capture a moment in front of its iconic facade.
Interestingly, I had envisioned an even grander entrance for The Ritz, but its actual facade presented an understated elegance, a subtle hint at the immense luxury that surely awaits within its hallowed halls. After a reflective walk around the impressive square, we headed back to our hotel. From there, an Uber swiftly transported us to the starting point of the second, equally exciting, segment of our 11-day French adventure.
Our next destination was a remarkable “moving hotel” on the tranquil waters of the Seine. This second phase of our trip was an 8-day Viking River Cruise, commencing from Le Pec – a charming suburb just outside the bustling heart of Paris. Our itinerary promised a captivating journey to the historic beaches of Normandy, before a scenic return to the City of Lights.
Having previously enjoyed several expansive ocean cruises on large ships, this was our inaugural experience with a river cruise aboard what Viking proudly calls a “Longship.” The difference was immediately apparent – a more intimate, focused, and immersive way to explore the landscapes and cultures along the riverbanks.
The cruise proved to be an absolutely fabulous experience. We had the pleasure of forging new friendships, Ed made valuable business contacts, and together we explored countless charming towns nestled along the Seine, culminating in a deeply moving visit to the historic D-Day beaches of Normandy, where the Allied forces landed during WWII. The intimacy of river cruising allowed us to connect more deeply with each destination.
Stay tuned as I continue to share more captivating details about this incredible leg of our journey – our unforgettable Viking River Cruise along the Seine, weaving through the heart of French history and culture. From the vantage point of the ruins of Château Gaillard, looking down upon the river, one could clearly see our ship gracefully docked alongside the picturesque town of Les Andelys. While Ed and I opted for a scenic walk up the hill to the château, for the most part, our journey on this cruise was effortlessly managed, with the ship or comfortable tour buses transporting us to every fascinating locale. More insights and stories from this adventure will be coming soon!
If you’ve missed the initial installments of our Parisian adventures, you can catch up on our previous posts:
- Touring Paris By Bicycle: Discovering the City on Two Wheels
- Walking All Around Paris: An Immersive Guide to Exploring on Foot
- My Viking River Cruise Along the Seine: A Journey from Paris to Normandy