Transform Your Laundry Room: Easy DIY Wall Cabinet Installation & Crown Molding Guide

Just a few weeks ago, my mudroom was undergoing a gentle decorative refresh, not a full-blown renovation. The initial plan involved minor updates: a new ceiling light fixture to brighten the space and a vibrant painted rug to add a pop of color underfoot. However, as I was applying the final touches to the rug, an unexpected development shifted our entire perspective: we decided to move. This news immediately altered my approach to home projects, including the mudroom. My focus quickly pivoted from personalizing the space to strategically staging it for sale, aiming to appeal to a broad range of potential buyers.

One of the most impactful improvements I knew would significantly enhance the home’s marketability was the addition of functional storage. Specifically, installing wall cabinets above the washer and dryer seemed like an obvious win. Storage is a universally sought-after feature, a key selling point that resonates with almost every buyer, regardless of their individual taste or decorating style. A well-organized and aesthetically pleasing laundry area can make a huge difference in how a home is perceived, translating directly into added value and buyer appeal.

Before & After: A Dramatic Transformation for Maximum Appeal

Before embarking on this essential upgrade, our mudroom’s laundry zone featured a simple, freestanding storage rack. While it had served its purpose adequately for 22 years, offering open shelving for various items, it lacked the polished, built-in look that today’s homebuyers often seek. This setup, though functional, didn’t maximize the vertical space efficiently and could appear cluttered, detracting from the room’s overall potential.

BEFORE

The transformation began by removing the old rack and meticulously installing two matching wall cabinets directly above the washer and dryer. This strategic addition immediately upgraded the room’s functionality and aesthetic. The enclosed storage instantly created a cleaner, more streamlined appearance, transforming what was once a utility space into a well-appointed and organized area. We were genuinely surprised by how straightforward the installation process was; both cabinets were securely mounted within an hour, proving that a significant upgrade doesn’t always require extensive time or professional help. This easy DIY project not only enhanced the visual appeal but also significantly boosted the home’s perceived value by offering ample, concealed storage.

AFTER

The newly installed cabinets, complemented by freshly painted neutral walls, present a space that looks impeccably move-in ready. This neutral backdrop, combined with the practical storage, ensures the room appeals to any buyer, allowing them to envision their own style effortlessly. It’s a testament to how targeted improvements can significantly impact a home’s marketability.

Sourcing Affordable Wall Cabinets: Smart Shopping Tips

Undertaking a home improvement project like cabinet installation doesn’t have to break the bank. If you’re working with a budget, there are several excellent avenues for acquiring inexpensive cabinets. Explore local “scratch and dent” retailers; these stores often sell slightly damaged (but perfectly functional) cabinets at a fraction of the original price. Thrift stores and architectural salvage yards can also be treasure troves for unique or vintage cabinets that can be refurbished with a little DIY effort. Another fantastic, often overlooked source might be right in your neighborhood. Keep an eye out for neighbors or family members who are remodeling their kitchens. They might be eager to get rid of their old cabinets, which could be exactly what you need for your laundry room or mudroom. With a few basic supplies from your local hardware store, you can easily transform these finds to perfectly suit your aesthetic and functional needs.

Key Considerations When Choosing and Hanging Wall Cabinets:

Depth Difference: Remember that wall cabinets are typically shallower than base cabinets. Their standard depth is usually around 12 inches, providing ample storage without protruding too far into the room. For reference, my cabinets measured 30 inches wide by 30 inches high by 12 inches deep, offering generous capacity.
Optimal Height: While wall cabinets are generally hung about 54 inches from the floor in kitchens, special attention is required when installing them above a washer and dryer. It’s crucial to ensure this measurement allows sufficient clearance for the washer lid to open and close completely without obstruction. Always test this before final mounting.
The Finished Look: Adding crown molding along the top of your newly installed cabinets creates a sophisticated, built-in appearance. This small detail elevates the entire look of the room, making it appear custom-designed. Don’t worry if your cabinets don’t reach the ceiling – I’ll share a clever trick below on how to easily attach crown molding in such situations, achieving a seamless, professional finish.

How to Install Wall Cabinets: A Step-by-Step DIY Guide

Supplies Needed:

Wall Cabinets: I used two cabinets, ensuring their combined width matched that of my washer and dryer for a cohesive look.
2″ x 4″ Board: Essential for creating a temporary ledger to support the cabinets during installation, ensuring a level starting point.
Bubble Level: For precise leveling of the support board and the cabinets themselves, crucial for a professional finish.
Pencil: For marking stud locations and drilling points.
Drill and Drill Bit: To pre-drill pilot holes for screws, preventing wood splitting and easing installation.
3″ #10 Screws: You’ll need 3 to 6 screws per cabinet, depending on stud placement, to securely fasten them to the wall.
Screwdriver: To drive the screws firmly into the wall studs.
Stud Finder: Absolutely vital for locating wall studs, which are the structural supports necessary for secure cabinet mounting.
Painter’s Tape: A handy trick for marking stud locations without leaving pencil marks on your walls.
Caulk: To fill any gaps or seams between cabinets and the wall, providing a clean, finished appearance.
Cabinet Knobs with Screws: For easy opening and closing of cabinet doors, and to add a decorative touch.

Optional Supplies for Crown Molding:

Crown Molding: The length will depend on the total width and depth of your cabinets.
Two 6-inch long pieces of a 1″ x 4″ pine board: These will serve as mounting blocks for the crown molding.
Miter Saw: For making precise angled cuts on the crown molding.
Liquid Nails or similar construction adhesive: For attaching the wood blocks to the crown molding.

1. **Prepare Your Cabinets:** Before lifting heavy boxes, remove all cabinet doors and any removable shelves. This significantly lightens the cabinet boxes, making them easier and safer to handle during installation. It also provides unobstructed access to the cabinet interior for drilling and screwing.

2. **Locate and Mark Wall Studs:** Using a reliable stud finder, carefully locate the vertical wall studs in the area where your cabinets will be installed. These studs are the crucial anchor points for securely mounting your cabinets. Instead of marking directly on the wall with a pencil, which can leave unsightly residue, place small pieces of painter’s tape where you find each stud. Then, make your pencil marks directly on the tape. This simple trick saves you from having to clean off pencil marks later, preserving your freshly painted walls.

3. **Install the Temporary Ledger Board:** This step is critical for ensuring your cabinets are hung perfectly level and for providing support during installation. Measure and mark the desired bottom height for your cabinets – typically around 54 inches from the floor for standard wall cabinets. However, as noted earlier, for laundry rooms, always verify this height allows full access to your washer and dryer. Using a bubble level, position a 2″ x 4″ board horizontally along your marked line. Pre-drill pilot holes into the 2×4 and through the drywall into the wall studs, then securely attach the board to the wall using screws. This temporary ledger board will bear the weight of the cabinets while you mount them, freeing your hands and ensuring accuracy.

Note: Remember, this 2″ x 4″ board is only a temporary support. It will be removed once all cabinets are securely mounted to the wall.

4. **Mount the First Cabinet:** With your temporary ledger in place, carefully lift the first cabinet onto the 2″ x 4″ board. This is where an extra set of hands is invaluable – have someone hold the cabinet firmly against the wall while you use a bubble level to double-check that it is perfectly level both horizontally and vertically. Once confirmed, use a drill to pre-drill pilot holes through the back of the cabinet box, aligning them with the marked wall studs. Insert three 3″ #10 wood screws through these holes and into the studs. If your cabinet spans two studs, use three additional screws for a total of six, ensuring maximum security and stability. Always make sure your screws hit the center of the stud for the strongest hold.

5. **Install Subsequent Cabinets:** For your second (or any additional) cabinet, butt it tightly against the side of the first installed cabinet. Before securing it, use your bubble level to check for level both horizontally with the first cabinet and vertically for plumb. Also, ensure the depth is consistent. Once aligned, use two short wood screws (around 1-1/4″ to 1-1/2″) to connect the face frames of the two cabinets together. This creates a continuous, sturdy unit. Then, just as you did with the first cabinet, pre-drill holes through the back of the second cabinet and secure it to the wall studs using three to six 3″ #10 wood screws.

6. **Shim for Perfect Plumb:** After all cabinets are mounted, step back and examine them from the side. If any cabinet appears slightly out of plumb (leaning forward or backward) or if there’s a small gap between the cabinet side and the wall, you may need to use shims. Gently push the narrow end of wood shims behind the cabinet, between the cabinet back and the wall, until the cabinet is perfectly plumb. Once adjusted, use a craft knife to score the excess shim flush with the cabinet and then snap it off. Shimming ensures your cabinets are not only level but also perfectly straight, providing a flawless finish.

7. **Remove the Temporary Support:** Once all cabinets are securely fastened and shimmed, carefully remove the 2″ x 4″ ledger board from underneath. Patch any screw holes left by the ledger if necessary.

8. **Replace Cabinet Doors:** With the cabinet boxes firmly in place, re-attach all the cabinet doors. This completes the main structural installation, and you can now proceed with decorative enhancements.

How to Attach Crown Molding to Wall Cabinets That Don’t Reach the Ceiling: The Easy Way

Adding crown molding instantly elevates the look of any cabinet installation, giving it a custom, built-in feel. However, attaching crown molding to wall cabinets that don’t extend all the way to the ceiling can be a bit challenging, as you lack the traditional ceiling-to-cabinet nailing surface. But don’t despair! There’s a clever trick to achieve a secure and professional finish. Instead of relying solely on finishing nails, we utilized a combination of construction adhesive and wood blocks to create a robust attachment method.

The other common issue encountered with certain cabinets is that their side panels might be slightly thinner than the front face frames (by about 1/4 inch). This difference can make it impossible for the crown molding to sit flush against the cabinet side without a modification. Our solution involved strategically notching the back of the side crown molding piece for a perfect fit.

1. **Cut Your Crown Molding:** Using a miter saw, carefully cut your crown molding into the required pieces: one long piece for the front of the cabinets and shorter pieces for each exposed side. A valuable tip here: always cut your initial pieces a few inches longer than you think you’ll need. This extra length provides a buffer, allowing you to re-cut or re-miter if you make a mistake, saving you from wasting an entire piece of expensive molding. Precision is key with miter cuts for seamless corners.

2. **Miter the Corners:** For the corners where the front and side pieces meet, make a 45-degree compound miter cut on one end of each piece. Ensure these cuts are clean and precise for a tight, professional-looking joint.

3. **Mark for Notching (if needed):** After making your miter cut and trimming the molding to the correct length, temporarily position the side piece of crown molding along the top side of your cabinet. If you notice a gap or an uneven fit due to the cabinet side being thinner than the front, use a pencil to mark two points on the back of the crown molding where it needs to be notched. This notch will allow the molding to sit perfectly flat against the cabinet side, creating a flush appearance.

4. **Cut the Notch:** Using a craft knife, carefully cut along your pencil marks to create the necessary notch from the back of the crown molding piece. Take your time to make a clean cut for a smooth finish.

5. **Attach Wood Blocks for Mounting:** This is the ingenious part of our crown molding trick. Take two 6-inch long pieces of 1″ x 2″ (or similar narrow scrap wood). Apply a generous amount of Liquid Nails or a strong construction adhesive along the bottom edge of the center back of your crown molding pieces, as clearly illustrated in the photos above. Press the wood blocks firmly onto the adhesive. Allow the adhesive to dry completely according to the manufacturer’s instructions. These blocks will serve as your secure attachment points to the cabinet tops.

6. **Secure the Crown Molding:** Once the adhesive is fully cured and the wood blocks are firmly attached to your crown molding, carefully position the molding (with the blocks attached) along the top front edge of your cabinets. Use wood screws to fasten the blocks directly into the top of the cabinet frames. This method provides a very strong and stable attachment, even without a ceiling connection.

7. **Finishing Touches:** After the molding is securely in place, run a bead of caulk along any seams or small gaps where the crown molding meets the cabinets or the wall. This fills imperfections and creates a truly seamless, professional finish. Allow the caulk to dry completely, then paint the molding to match your cabinets or trim, as needed.

How to Attach Cabinet Knobs: The Final Polish

Installing cabinet knobs is the final step that adds both functionality and aesthetic appeal to your new cabinets. The right knobs can tie your whole design together and make the cabinets easy to use.

1. **Mark Knob Placement:** Carefully determine the desired placement for your knobs. A common and aesthetically pleasing standard is to position the hole two inches from the bottom edge of the cabinet door, aligning it horizontally with the door’s stile (the vertical frame piece). However, if your cabinet doors feature mitered corner joints, it is crucial to drill the holes *above* this mitered section. Drilling into the mitered joint can weaken the door structure and potentially cause it to come apart. If your cabinet doors do not have mitered corners, you can opt to drill the hole one inch from the bottom edge for a slightly different look. Use a pencil to mark the exact drilling point.

2. **Drill and Attach:** Using a drill bit appropriate for the knob screws, carefully drill a pilot hole through the marked spot on the cabinet door. Once the hole is drilled, insert the knob screw from the back side of the door and thread it into the knob. Twist the knob to tighten it securely. Repeat for all cabinet doors, ensuring consistency in placement.

This comprehensive DIY guide covers everything from sourcing cabinets to adding the final knob. You’ll be amazed at how easily you can transform your mudroom or laundry room into a highly functional and attractive space, perfect for everyday living or impressing potential buyers.

I have one more “staging trick” up my sleeve that I implemented in this room, a versatile idea that can be applied in any home, not just when preparing to sell. I’ll be sharing that secret with you very soon!

This post is proudly sponsored by True Value Hardware; thank you for supporting the partners that make high-quality DIY content like this possible for In My Own Style.