Irish Wanderlust

An Unforgettable 9-Day Irish Adventure: Family Reunion, Rolling Hills & Coastal Wonders

Just recently, my husband, Ed, and I embarked on an incredible nine-day journey to the Emerald Isle. The trip, starting from Philadelphia, led us first to the vibrant capital of Dublin before we settled into the charming city of Galway. While Ireland boasts an abundance of breathtaking sights, our primary mission was a deeply personal one: to reunite with our two daughters.

One of our daughters was spending a semester immersed in Irish culture and academia, a dream come true for her. Our other daughter, whom we hadn’t seen in over a year, flew in from her Peace Corps service in Africa, accompanied by two of her adventurous Peace Corps friends. This wasn’t her first stop, however; they had enjoyed a whirlwind globetrotting adventure beforehand, collecting passport stamps from exotic locales like Casablanca, Lisbon, and Paris. This extensive travel added an extra layer of excitement to our reunion, bringing a touch of global flair to the Irish countryside.

For Ed and me, this Irish escape was more than just a family visit; it was a much-needed respite from the complexities of everyday life. We had spent two challenging years navigating the uncertainties of unemployment and dealing with the pressing issues surrounding aging parents. The prospect of nine days in Ireland, surrounded by family and immersed in a new culture, promised the perfect getaway, a chance to press reset and reconnect.

The moment we saw our daughters, ready to explore Galway, was truly special. Here they are, beaming in front of a quaint florist shop in the heart of the city – a picture of pure joy and togetherness. After months of relying on regular Skype calls to bridge the vast distances, nothing compared to the warmth of their physical presence. It was a tangible reminder of the power of family bonds, regardless of geographical separation. This reunion set the tone for an unforgettable adventure filled with laughter, shared experiences, and cherished memories.

Daughters reunited in front of a colorful florist shop in Galway, Ireland

Our Authentic Irish Cottage Experience in Connemara

Understanding the realities of our budget, we employed a smart travel hack: utilizing our accumulated timeshare points. This allowed us to experience Ireland without breaking the bank, opting for a truly unique stay instead of a generic resort or hotel. Our accommodation choice was a stroke of genius – an authentic Irish cottage, complete with a charming thatched roof, nestled in the picturesque region of Connemara.

Located on the stunning west coast of Ireland, in the heart of the serene lake region, our cottage instantly enveloped us in an authentically Irish atmosphere. The interior, while beautifully simple and traditional in its bones, surprised us with a brand-new kitchen that had a distinctly modern, almost IKEA-ish feel. This blend of old-world charm and contemporary convenience made our stay incredibly comfortable and unique. Each morning, we woke up to breathtaking views right outside our window, often greeted by the sight of sheep peacefully grazing right next to the cottage – a quintessential Irish scene that truly made us feel at home.

The charming exterior of our traditional Irish cottage in ConnemaraPanoramic view from the cottage, showcasing the lush Connemara landscapeIdyllic view from our Connemara cottage window, overlooking the tranquil scenerySheep grazing peacefully directly next to our charming Irish cottage

Navigating Ireland’s Scenic Roads: An Adventure in Itself

Another step towards our “authentic Irish” immersion involved navigating the country’s roads – specifically, driving on the left-hand side. We rented a car, with Ed bravely taking the wheel. The initial challenge of making right-hand turns from the “wrong” side of the road and maneuvering through countless roundabouts, especially in busier areas like Dublin and Galway, was certainly intense. However, Ed quickly got the hang of it, mastering the rhythm of Irish traffic with impressive ease.

Our trusty GPS proved to be an indispensable co-pilot, guiding us flawlessly through winding country lanes and bustling city streets. This freedom of having our own transportation was paramount; it allowed us to explore Ireland at our own pace, deviate from planned routes on a whim, and discover hidden gems not found on standard tour itineraries. For anyone considering a trip to Ireland, I cannot recommend renting a car enough. It transforms the journey from a passive observation into an active, immersive adventure, offering unparalleled flexibility to truly experience the heart of the country.

Driving on the left side of the road in rural Ireland, a true local experience

Stepping into Film History: The Quiet Man Bridge

Our little cottage held a secret connection to Hollywood history. It was situated just up the road from the very bridge featured in the iconic 1952 John Wayne and Maureen O’Hara movie, “The Quiet Man.” This classic film beautifully captures the essence of rural Ireland, and finding ourselves so close to such a famous landmark was an unexpected delight. The bridge itself, modest yet historically significant, draws visitors from all over, with tour buses frequently stopping by to allow fans to relive moments from the beloved film.

Naturally, we couldn’t resist a moment of playful homage to the film, embracing the spirit of the location. Being silly on “The Quiet Man” Bridge was a highlight, and the presence of a photo of John Wayne at the site underscored its enduring legacy. It was fascinating to witness how a piece of cinematic history could be so seamlessly integrated into the tranquil Irish landscape, becoming a point of pride and a magnet for curious travelers.

Classic movie cover of 'The Quiet Man' film

We certainly weren’t quiet, but delightfully silly on The Quiet Man Bridge.

Family posing playfully on The Quiet Man Bridge in Connemara

The bridge is a popular spot, often graced by a photo of the legendary John Wayne, reminding visitors of its cinematic heritage. It’s truly a must-see for film buffs and anyone seeking a slice of Irish cinematic history.

Right next door, the cottage neighboring ours was undergoing a fascinating transformation: getting a new thatched roof. Observing the roofers at work was incredibly interesting, a glimpse into a traditional craft that few get to witness up close. It turns out, a properly maintained thatched roof can last an astonishing 30 years! The process, though ancient, seemed both simple and remarkably effective, a testament to enduring craftsmanship.

Our own cottage boasted unique glass doors, a design feature that captivated me throughout our stay. I wish I had taken the time to inquire more about the history or craftsmanship behind them, as their intricate patterns seemed to tell a story of their own, adding another layer of charm to our temporary Irish home.

Majestic Kylemore Abbey and the Surprising Irish Palms

Our first official sightseeing excursion led us to the breathtaking Kylemore Abbey. It was a remarkably sunny and warm day, a delightful surprise for early spring in Ireland, making the already stunning landscape even more enchanting. The Abbey, nestled serenely by a lough and surrounded by verdant hills, was a truly picturesque sight, with hints of spring just beginning to emerge in the gardens and surrounding flora.

The majestic Kylemore Abbey reflected in the serene waters of Kylemore Lough

Intricate architectural details and stonework of Kylemore Abbey

A vibrant turquoise fence contrasting beautifully with the green Irish landscape at Kylemore Abbey

No family trip would be complete without our quirky travel companions, Gumby and Pokey! They dutifully came along, striking a pose for a photo at every significant spot, including this scenic rock overlooking Kylemore Abbey. This particular day, with its glorious full sun, was a rare and cherished gift, allowing us to fully appreciate the stunning beauty of Kylemore Lough glistening in front of the Abbey.

Gumby and Pokey, the travel mascots, perched on a rock overlooking Kylemore Abbey

The tranquility of Kylemore Lough, reflecting the Abbey and the surrounding mountains, was simply captivating.

The picturesque Kylemore Lough reflecting the Abbey on a beautiful sunny day

Prepare for a delightful surprise: look closely at the image below. Yes, that is indeed a thriving palm tree, robustly growing on a North Atlantic island! Ireland’s unique microclimate, influenced by the Gulf Stream, allows these seemingly tropical trees to flourish, particularly along its western coast. It’s an unexpected and charming juxtaposition of flora that adds to the country’s unique allure.

Thriving palm trees unexpectedly growing along an Irish lake

These resilient palm trees are not an isolated phenomenon; they punctuate the coastal landscape, adding an exotic touch to Ireland’s rugged shores.

A striking palm tree standing tall along the rugged Irish coastline

The Iconic Cliffs of Moher: A Misty Encounter

Ireland is renowned for its dramatic coastline and breathtaking ocean vistas, with none more famous than the majestic Cliffs of Moher in County Clare. We eagerly anticipated witnessing these natural wonders, but as is often the case with Irish weather, the day we visited was unfortunately overcast and misty. While the sheer scale of the cliffs was still awe-inspiring, I must admit a slight disappointment at not being able to see them in their full, sun-drenched glory.

The vast, misty expanse of the Cliffs of Moher on an overcast day

A closer view of the rugged rock formations at the Cliffs of Moher

Dramatic perspective of the Cliffs of Moher, stretching into the mist

Despite the mist, the geological grandeur of the cliffs was undeniable. For someone who, in a past life, might have been a geologist, I found the sheer rock faces and dramatic formations utterly captivating. To truly appreciate their magnificent scale, here’s a glimpse of what they look like on a bright, sunny day – a truly wondrous site that leaves an indelible impression on all who visit.

The awe-inspiring Cliffs of Moher basking in glorious sunshine

Since the weather limited our full outdoor enjoyment of the cliffs, we made the most of our visit by exploring the excellent welcome center. It offered fascinating exhibits and panoramic views from inside, providing a wonderful alternative perspective and an engaging experience for the whole family.

Silhouetted family enjoying an indoor panoramic view of the Cliffs of Moher

Picturesque Drives and Enchanting Villages

Our days were filled with scenic drives, transitioning from one captivating landscape to the next. The journey itself became an integral part of the adventure, as we passed countless historical castles, their ancient stones standing testament to Ireland’s rich and storied past. Even glimpsing them from the car window added a layer of romanticism to our travels, imagining the lives lived within their walls centuries ago.

An ancient Irish castle standing proudly amidst the lush green landscape

Beyond the castles, every turn revealed more stunning vistas – rolling hills, serene lakes, and expansive skies that seemed to stretch on forever. The Connemara lake region, in particular, offered scenes of unparalleled natural beauty, where water and land intertwined in a harmonious tapestry of greens and blues.

Breathtaking panoramic view of the Irish countryside with rolling hills and distant mountains

A tranquil lake scene in the heart of the Connemara region of Ireland

Our drives also took us through a succession of vibrant and picturesque villages and towns, each bursting with character. The rows of homes and shops, painted in a cheerful palette of colors, created an inviting and charming atmosphere, reflecting the lively spirit of Irish communities.

A charming street lined with colorful houses and shops in a quaint Irish town

A brightly painted orange storefront in an Irish village, adding to the vibrant streetscape

One particular storefront caught our eye: a butcher shop whose windows were neatly lined with pretty pink bags. If you’re wondering about their contents, it’s a classic Irish staple – potatoes, demonstrating their ever-present role in local cuisine.

Traditional Irish butcher shop with bags of potatoes displayed in the window

Walking along a picturesque cobblestone street in a charming Irish town

The unique decorative glass in windows, much like those on our cottage door, was a recurring motif throughout our travels. These intricate designs adorned buildings in every town we visited, adding a subtle yet distinct artistic touch to the local architecture. We also admired the perfectly named eateries that dotted the landscape, adding a touch of humor and local flavor to our culinary explorations.

Irish buildings featuring beautiful decorative glass windows

“Kelly’s” is just one example of the perfectly named eateries we encountered, reflecting common Irish surnames and a welcoming, local feel.

The charming storefront of 'Kelly's', a traditional Irish eatery

Interspersed among the colorful shops were quaint homes, often framed by perfectly manicured hedges, showcasing the meticulous care and pride the Irish take in their properties.

Quaint Irish homes with perfectly manicured hedges, showcasing rural charm

Another striking feature of the Irish landscape was the abundant yellow gorse. These vibrant, prickly shrubs, with their dazzling golden blooms, lined many of the country roads, including the one leading to our cottage. Their bright color provided a beautiful contrast to the dominant greens, adding another layer of visual appeal to our journey.

Vibrant yellow gorse bushes lining a scenic road in rural Ireland

Immersing in Irish Pub Culture

No trip to Ireland is complete without a visit to its famous pubs, and we made sure to frequent a few. These aren’t just places to grab a drink; they’re the vibrant heart of local communities, buzzing with conversation, music, and sports. We had the pleasure of watching more than one football (soccer to us Americans) game on big-screen TVs, cheering alongside the passionate locals. It was a wonderful way to soak in the authentic Irish atmosphere.

In one memorable instance, while trying to capture the lively scene, I heard a familiar whisper: “Mom – you are soooooo NOT taking our picture from across the pub, are you?” Such is the endearing embarrassment of daughters on vacation! Despite their protest, the moment, and the laughter that followed, perfectly encapsulated the joy of our family adventure. And, of course, we savored a few pints of Ireland’s most famous dark stout – an essential part of the experience.

And yes, we certainly downed a few of these iconic dark pints, a true taste of Ireland.

Coastal Charm and City Exploration in Galway

In Galway, we ventured to Salthill, a popular seaside promenade. Despite the blustery weather, we bravely climbed up onto a diving platform, typically used by swimmers during the warmer summer months. The effort was immensely rewarding, offering us a stunning panoramic view of the rugged coastline, the charming city of Galway, and the distant, mystical Aran Islands. It was a moment of pure, windswept beauty.

Dad and daughters enjoying the view from the Salthill diving platform in Galway

What truly amazed us was seeing people swimming laps in the freezing Atlantic waters, completely unfazed by the cold and without the aid of wetsuits or dry suits. Their resilience and dedication were truly admirable, and frankly, a little crazy!

Brave swimmers taking a dip in the chilly waters off Salthill, Galway

Beyond the coastal beauty, we dedicated ample time to exploring the heart of Galway city itself. Its vibrant streets are a joy to wander, filled with unique shops offering everything from traditional Irish crafts to contemporary fashion. We thoroughly enjoyed browsing, soaking in the lively atmosphere, and discovering local treasures.

A person standing in front of a colorful Galway storefront, amidst bustling city life

The city’s scenery is equally captivating, with picturesque views along the River Corrib, where rows of colorful homes reflect beautifully on the water, creating a postcard-perfect urban landscape.

Scenic view of the River Corrib in Galway, lined with charming colorful houses

Conquering Diamond Hill: A Highlight in Connemara National Park

Our last full day in Ireland was dedicated to an invigorating hike up Diamond Hill, a prominent peak within the magnificent Connemara National Park. The weather, as it often does in the mountains, started overcast and gradually became mistier as we ascended higher. The changing atmospheric conditions added a dramatic, almost ethereal quality to the landscape, making the climb feel even more adventurous.

Hiking up the scenic trails of Diamond Hill in Connemara National Park

The ascent was challenging but immensely rewarding, and the camaraderie of hiking together as a family made every step enjoyable. Even before reaching the summit, the views were progressively stunning, revealing more of Connemara’s rugged beauty with every meter gained.

Our daughters hiking enthusiastically in the beautiful Connemara region

Steep ascent pathway winding up the majestic mountain in Connemara

Reaching the halfway mark was a cause for celebration! We jumped with excitement, fueled by a sense of accomplishment and anticipation for the summit. The panoramic views, even at this point, were absolutely breathtaking, urging us onward.

The girls celebrating and jumping halfway up Diamond Hill in Connemara National Park

Girls jumping in excitement at the halfway point of their mountain hike

Finally, we reached the summit – a moment of triumph and sheer awe. The views from the top of Diamond Hill were nothing short of spectacular, stretching across the vast Connemara landscape, a truly fitting climax to our Irish adventure. Success!

Family standing triumphantly at the summit of Diamond Hill in Connemara National Park

The descent offered a different perspective, with the majestic Kylemore Abbey now appearing as a tiny jewel nestled far below in the verdant valley, a beautiful reminder of our earlier explorations. These shared moments, conquering Diamond Hill together, solidified not just memories of Ireland’s beauty, but also the strength of our family bond.

Panoramic view during the descent from Diamond Hill, showing Kylemore Abbey in the valley

A cherished family photo taken amidst the stunning scenery of Connemara National Park

A Farewell to Ireland and the Journey Home

Before our departure, I even managed a quick peek into TK Maxx – Ireland’s equivalent of TJ Maxx. While I didn’t make any purchases, it was certainly tempting to browse the familiar aisles, a little slice of home in a foreign land. Our nine days in Ireland had flown by in a blur of discovery, family laughter, and breathtaking landscapes. Suddenly, it was time to say goodbye, a bittersweet moment as all wonderful trips must eventually end.

Parting with our daughters was, as always, difficult. Yet, the comfort of modern technology, particularly Skype, ensures we remain deeply connected across continents. Our journey didn’t end with Ireland; that evening, we checked into a hotel, and the following morning, we flew to Frankfurt, Germany, for a brief, delightful visit with one of Ed’s relatives. This extended our European adventure just a little longer, adding another layer of family connection to our trip.

Ed reunited with his relative, Herb, in Germany

After our visit in Germany, we were back in the air, beginning the long nine-hour flight home. I had hoped to catch up on sleep, but a critical error was made during our German visit: I indulged in some incredibly strong German coffee. Fully wired, I spent the flight wide awake, passing the time by watching three onboard movies, delving into a good book, and, admittedly, eating far too much. US Air certainly ensured we were well-fed!

Despite the exhilarating adventures and cherished memories created during our incredible trip, there’s always a comforting sentiment that resonates when returning home. It brings to mind the timeless words of Frank Sinatra, perfectly capturing the bittersweet essence of travel and homecoming:

It’s very nice to go trav’ling
To Paris, London and Rome
It’s oh, so nice to go trav’ling
But it’s so much nicer
Yes, it’s so much nicer to come home

It’s very nice to just wander
The camel route to Iraq
It’s oh, so nice to just wander
But it’s so much nicer
Yes, it’s oh so nice to wander back

It’s very nice to go trav’ling
But it’s oh so nice to come home
A well-traveled passport, symbol of global adventures

No more customs
Burn the passport
No more packing and unpacking
Light the home fires
Get my slippers
Make a pizza

Indeed, it’s very nice to go traveling, but there’s an unparalleled comfort and joy in returning to the familiar embrace of home!

A welcoming home, symbolizing comfort and belonging after travel

Visual guide for a 9-day travel itinerary through Ireland, featuring key attractions and experiences